Woodworking Holdfasts Are Like a Third Hand and Quicker Than Clamps

Over ten years ago I treated myself by purchasing a wonderful nine-foot Sjoberg’s Workbench from Woodcraft. I ordered plenty of square bench dogs and four boxes of drawers for the base. I love my bench – it’s heavy, flat, has relatively good vises, and tons of storage. I didn’t order the holdfasts when I bought the bench, because I thought I’d never use them. I was always able to clamp work to my benchtop, and I thought that was just fine.

As I prepared for the Hand Tool Olympics at Woodworking in America, I realized that clamping pieces was clumsy, slow, and frustrating. Not to mention all the times I stuck myself with the tail end of a bar clamp. I started to look around for holdfasts made for my Sjoberg’s bench, but didn’t really have any luck. There’s also only one pre-drilled (and steel lined) hole in my bench and having just one place for the hold down is pretty limiting. So after reading great reviews about the Grammercy Holdfasts and talking to other woodworkers, I added a pair to my WIA wish list.

On the Expo Floor at Woodworking in America I was able to work with holdfasts for the first time. I don’t know how I ever worked without these, and I was excited to order a pair. Unfortunately you couldn’t order them at the show, so I ordered them from my hotel room on the Tools for Working Wood website that night. A pair was about $30, which is about the cost of a good clamp.

Round Peg, Square Hole

My Sjoberg’s bench has square bench dog holes pre-drilled at regular intervals. These are awesome, but won’t work for holdfasts, so I needed to (gasp) drill more holes in my benchtop. I chose a position about five inches from the front of the bench, a little to the right of the face vise where I’d be sawing dovetails, and marked a spot. The challenge now would be to bore a 3/4” hole through the four inch benchtop cleanly and squarely. Luckily, I have a great set of Jennings bits handed down from my family, and a nice (and now clean and lubricated) Stanley bit brace I picked up from The Superior Tools Works on the show floor at WIA. The trick now is to bore the hole squarely. The series of pictures below describes my process.

Roughing up the Stems

First, the holdfasts need cleaning and roughing up. I wiped the holdfasts with mineral spirits to remove grease and grime, and then roughed them up as recommended so they’d hold better in the bench. Sand around the stem with some sandpaper, not up and down, I want to create rings on the stem.

Upper Cut Woodworks Grammercy Tools Holdfasts Cleaned and Ridged

Boring Straight Holes By Hand With a Drill Block

To ensure the hole I bored was plumb, I first used my drill press and a 3/4” forstner bit to drill a hole in a thick block of scrap fir. This block would guide my Jennings bit.

Upper Cut Woodworks Holdfast Drill Block Prepared on Drill Press

I placed the bit through the hole in the guide block, and set the point of the bit on the “X Marks the Spot” on the bench. I clamped the guide block down to the bench, and I clamped it down good. I’d be doing the twist through a lot of wood and will want that guide block to stay put.

Upper Cut Woodworks Bit Brace in Drill Block Clamped to Bench

When I bottomed out on the guide block I removed it. The hole I’d bored so far will guide the bit the rest of the way.

Upper Cut Woodworks Bit Brace in Hole in Bench

Hole Complete and Holdfast Tested

And now I have a shiny new hole in my bench that fits my new Grammercy Holdfast perfectly. You can see the giant holdfast hole that came with this bench to the left.

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The test is snug and the bored is secured very well. But there’s one more thing I forgot.

Upper Cut Woodworks Grammercy Holdfast Fits in Bench Perfectly

All the Cool Holdfasts are Wearing Leather

To reduce the amount of damage the holdfast will do to my pieces, I glued a piece of suede on the face of each. Here’s how I did that.

First, I gathered my supplies. Scrap suede and some Gorilla Glue clear. This isn’t the PVA wood glue they were exchanging at WIA, this is their clear glue that says it bonds metal, wood, and other materials.

Upper Cut Woodworks Suede and Gorilla Glue for Grammercy Holdfasts

I roughed up the face of the holdfast and applied the glue. I wetted the suede and applied it to the face, and then using a spring clamp and a scrap block I clamped these for about an hour. In the picture below, you can see the Gorilla Glue foaming out around the face of the holdfast.

Upper Cut Woodworks Suede Gorilla Glued and Clamped to Holdfasts

After the glue was dry and I removed the clamp, I trimmed the excess suede and hardened glue foam away from the face with an X-Acto knife.

Upper Cut Woodworks Suede Trimmed on Holdfasts After Gorilla Glue Dries

Holdfasts Are A Welcome Addition, Economical Addition to the Shop

I’ve only had these holdfasts installed for a week. I am really happy with how easy they are to install, how quickly I’ve adapted to them, and how well they work. Because they don’t get in the way like clamps, and are so fast to use with just a whack of a mallet, I find myself holding my work more. This decreases my frustration and increases my precision. I don’t know how I worked without holdfasts before, and why I didn’t buy these sooner. At $31.95 for a pair, these are cheaper and easier to use than other holdfasts, and much cheaper than the Veritas holdfast which is currently priced at $78.50. For more information on holdfasts, you might find this article at Popular Woodworking interesting.

Practicing Hand Cut Dovetails for Woodworking in America

I know, it’s hard to believe, you haven’t seen a new post since spring. For the few of you that were concerned, thanks for your concern and encouragement, but I’m just fine. Things have just been very busy (in a good way) this summer. My wife and I purchased a vacation place in Crescent Bar and have enjoyed many family-focused weekends there in the sunshine. Our four-year old is becoming quite a swimmer, and I’ve been fishing the lakes nearby quite a lot. I expect that next summer will be a slow woodworking and blogging time for me as well. I do most of my work in the Fall, Winter, and Spring. Thank goodness my shop is well lit and heated.

The Hand Tool Olympics

If you haven’t heard of Woodworking in America, then you must be living under a rock. All the cool woodworking kids are going and we’ll be participating in the Hand Tool Olympics either as teams or individuals. I don’t think we have it figured out yet – we’re slackers that way. There are six events:

  1. One Meter Dash: rip a 1” x 12” x 36” using a hand saw.
  2. Shooting Sports: use a jointer plane to square the edge from the One Meter Dash.
  3. Crosscut Extravaganza: crosscut that same board with a hand saw.
  4. Brace Yourself for a hole in One: bore a 3/4” hole in a plank straight and square to the surface.
  5. Pins First or Tails First: hand cut dovetails.
  6. Greco-Roman Tenons: cut a 3” long 3/4” inch thick tenon on the end of a 2” x 4”

The Dovetail Rules

I’m practicing my hand cut dovetails first, so I went straight to Mike Siemsen from the Society of American Period Furniture Makers and the School of Wood to get the details.

  1. Materials: 3/4” x 3” pine
  2. Tools: 1/2” chisel, mallet, layout gauge, dovetail saw, pencil or marking knife, coping saw, marking gauge, and square
  3. Objective: 2 full tails, 1 full pin, 2 half pins or 2 full pins, 1 full tail, 2 half tails

The tools I’m using and a test joint in some hemlock.

The tools I’m using and a test joint in some hemlock.

Stock Preparation

I had a lot of 3/4” pine on my lumber rack, so I milled it down today and prepared some test pieces. It’s not 3/4” thick per Olympic rules, but it’s fine for practice and I don’t expect any sanctions.

8” long, 3” wide, 9/16” thick pine boards ready to be hacked up and then burned unless they look good.

8” long, 3” wide, 9/16” thick pine boards ready to be hacked up and then burned unless they look good.

Rhythm and Quality

Today while cutting dovetails I had my little girl in the shop. It is very nice to have your kids in the shop with you during hand work. There is no noise, and you can carry on a conversation while you work. She’s only four, but really enjoys the time in there with me. Anyway, today I was working on developing a repeatable rhythm for quickly cutting dovetails. Here’s the steps I went through.

Tails first

  1. Mark the inside face and bottom edge of both boards
  2. Using the marking gauge set to the thickness of the stock, scratch a mark along both ends and faces of the tail board and both faces of the pin board
  3. By eye, mark the half pins on the tail board
  4. With the small square, find the center of the tail board, and mark the center pin (it’s about 1/2” wide)
  5. With the layout gauge, mark the tails on the face of the board
  6. Tilt the board in the vise to cut the left side of the tails, tilt it the other way to cut the right side
  7. Using a coping saw, remove the center pin as close to the line as possible
  8. Put the board in the vise right side down, remove the half pin
  9. Put the board in the vise left side down, remove the half pin
  10. I’m now done cutting the tails; clean up all cuts with the chisel

Pins next

  1. Put the pin board in the vise. Orient the boards so that the inside faces and bottom edges are correct, and the edges are flush.
  2. Trace the edges of the tails onto the pin board.
  3. Cut the tails away on the pin board, leaving the pencil line.
  4. Using a coping saw, remove the tails as close to the line as possible
  5. I’m now done cutting the pins; clean up all cuts with a chisel

Test the joint

Assemble the joint with the inside faces and bottom edges correctly oriented. After three practice joints today, you should get something as good or better than this.

My four year-old Hayden with dovetail joint #3.

My four year-old Hayden with dovetail joint #3.

Key Takeaways

This is the “what I learned today” section.

  1. Handwork is quieter and therefore lends itself to having your kids in the shop with you. Hayden is building a playground for her dolls with the offcuts.
  2. Handcut dovetails are not that hard. A little practice goes a long way.
  3. The coping saw may be the unsung hero of the dovetail. The better you are with the coping saw, the less chiseling you’ll need to do. I’ll be picking up a nice one at WIA this year.
  4. Hold-downs for chisel clean up are key. Too bad I don’t have a hold-down for my Sjoberg’s bench. If anyone can point me to a hold down that will work, I’d appreciate it.

More Information

Shannon Rogers, the Renaissance Woodworker, just posted an interview with Mike Siemsen the originator of the Hand Tool Olympics. He also has some great videos about the events and a Hand Tool School.

Next Steps

I’m going to watch some of Shannon’s videos and other woodworking videos to refine my technique and improve my time. Today I didn’t actually time myself because Hayden was in the shop but I will do that when I am practicing in the shop alone. It felt great to get some shop time today, and I’m glad I’ve been able to keep up (for the most part) with everyone on twitter. See you all at Woodworking in America!

Limericks for Popular Woodworking

There have been a lot of editorial staff changes over at Popular Woodworking Magazine lately. Glen Huey is transitioning from Senior Editor to contributing editor. Chris Schwarz is leaving his role as Editor to pursue woodworking and his publishing company Lost Art Press.

These are all big changes at my favorite woodworking magazine. In this modern age of digital publications choking out traditional magazine and newspapers, Popular Woodworking has thrived.

Despite these changes, I’m confident that Popular Woodworking will continue to thrive. Although the roles and titles are changing all three will still be involved with making Popular Woodworking and Woodworking in America conference great. All these changes seem to be on good terms, and the magazine is healthy from a business perspective.

Megan posted a T. S. Eliot poem as a comment  to Chris’ Lost Art Press blog:

“For last year’s words belong to last year’s language
And next year’s words await another voice.
And to make an end is to make a beginning.”

~ T.S. Eliot

Chris however wanted something more salty:

Unless it begins:

“There once was a whore from Nantucket…”

It ain’t poetry.

So, if it’s salty limericks he wants, let’s give it to him. Post your woodworking related limerick in the comments.

A jointer down in ol’ Kentuck
Threw down his pen, and exclaimed “oh f-ck!”
Tom the plane-maker said,
“build ’til you’re dead!”
So he loaded his tools in his truck

And

A bodger from fair Tennessee
Worried his skills were too rusty
He closed down his Mac book
picked up an old French book
And discovered they were still trusty

Thanks Steve, Glen, Chris, and all everyone else at Popular Woodworking for great contributions to the craft.