Woodworking Shop Upgrades Part 1: Unpacking of Grizzly Jointer and Planer

More than ten years ago I bought a Delta 22-560 12 1/2” Planer and a Grizzly 1182ZX 6” Jointer. Both tools have served me well, and helped me create some great projects. I need some more capacity now that I’m taking on some bigger projects, and I was really interested in spiral cutterheads with carbide inserts. It’s a great innovation in woodworking tools and I’m excited for the noise reduction and convenience of the replaceable carbide inserts. Both were well taken care of and would be great tools for someone starting out. After a couple days on craigslist I’ve already sold them to a guy from Portland. Wifey will be pleased that soon she’ll be able to park in the garage again.

Attack of the Clones and the Lack of American Made Tools

Both the jointer and planer are critical pieces in any hybrid (power and hand-tool) shop. It’s important to start with square stock and these are the tools that do the bulk of that work. I looked at many manufacturers, and looked hard for American-made tools. Steel City and Delta were promising, but both seem to be made in China. The Delta DJ20, Steel City 8” Industrial Jointer and my Grizzly look like they come out of the exact same factory. I couldn’t find a jointer or planer made in the USA, and that’s too bad. I’m not worried about Grizzly quality for a few reasons: the tools I’ve owned have worked well, I talked to a lot of people about the tools, and they just did best in the Fine Woodworking Bandsaw tests.

So on Halloween night I ordered my long awaited Grizzly Polar Bear Series 15” Spiral Cutterhead Planer and 8” Parallelogram Spiral Cutterhead Jointer. They were delivered on November 5th, so that’s a speedy delivery. The UPS man (they bought a local heavy freight delivery company) unloaded them right into my garage with a pallet jack. I had taken the day off, so I was ready for them with a nice big spot all cleared out.

Wooden Crates and Greasy Steel

The Planer came in one large wooden crate and the Jointer came in two separate packages: a large cardboard box for the base (including the motor) and a very long wooden crate for the jointer bed, fence, and accessories. They were well packed and I was ready with cutters for the steel bands, a pry bar & hammer, and an empty truck ready to be filled with the Chinese version of Baltic birch plywood. The pallets were rickety and the boxes were easy to open, but the tools were well protected inside. I was not looking forward to lifting these heavy tools or dealing with all the grease, but I was keeping my eye on the prize: shiny new iron that cuts smooth and quiet.

Grizzly G0453PX 15" Planer in Crate

Grizzly G0490X 8" Jointer in Crate

Unpacking an Aircraft Carrier

After a short time, I had the boxes mostly broken down. The jointer bed is bigger than I expected, and I’m glad both tools have integral mobile bases. Here’s the bed of the jointer, bolted to the bottom of the crate. Again this is covered in grease and the jointer will require more assembly than the Planer. Mike and I lifted this onto the base today, it was a little awkward because it is 76 1/2” long, but easier to lift than planer. I’ve never owned a Parallelogram Jointer before, and I’m excited to put it to use. This looks like an aircraft carrier in my garage, and I’m thinking if getting some model planes and toy soldiers to line up on the deck.

Grizzly G0490X 8" Jointer

Check out this comparison shot, I think this is a great upgrade.

Comparison shot of Grizzly 8" jointer and Grizzly 6" jointer

Here’s the planer. Completely assembled except for the caster, height adjustment wheel, table extensions, and dust hood. Bolted to the floor of the crate and covered in grease. The P in the model number designates the Polar Bear series, and indeed this Planer was made in China. The black bars on either size of the logo pull out and are meant to facilitate picking up the Planer with a forklift. My buddy and I ignored that recommendation and lifted this off the pallet ourselves today.

Grizzly G0453PX Planer

This picture shows one of the major reasons I made these purchases, spiral cutterheads with carbide inserts. Quiet, clean, and convenient.

Grizzly G0453PX Planer Spiral Cutterhead

Initial Impressions and Recommendations

These tools were easy to order and arrived quickly. It was was easy to coordinate delivery with UPS and the driver had no problem taking these right into my garage. The packing material was intact which made me feel good about the contents. The crates were made well-enough but came apart easily with a hammer and pry bar. My recommendation is that as soon as you remove a panel from the crate dispose of it immediately. There is a lot of packing material and if you don’t get it in the back of the truck immediately it will get in the way. I took all the packing material to the dump today, it weighed in at 240 pounds including the pallets.

There was no rust at all because of all the grease. I suspect the factory workers get “grease dispersement bonuses” because even painted surfaces were coated. I have no idea how I am supposed to get the grease out of Planer Rollers and Anti-Kickback Fingers, and I already have a few little cuts on my hands from the sharp carbide inserts. I would like the option to have these cleaned and setup in at Grizzly in Bellingham (2 hours or so North of me) and then delivered clean and ready to go to my shop. I would have paid extra for that.

The manuals are clear, contain ample pictures, and are up-to-date. They encourage you to call if you have problems and that’s pretty rare in my experience, companies usually discourage phone calls by directing you to their website or punishing you with automated phone trees. I haven’t had to call, but they have a good reputation for technical support and customer service.

Stay Tuned for Part 2

Check back for updates in this blog series. I still have to complete cleaning, complete assembly, tune everything with my A-Line It, wax the beds, hook up the electrical, and make initial cuts. I’d like to hear from you: do you own Grizzly tools and how have they worked for you? Do you know of American tool manufacturers? Any tips for cleanup or setup? What are your favorite brands, and why? Leave a comment and let me know.

Thomas Walnut Dresser – Could Shop Night Go Any Better?

Wow. What a couple of nights I’ve had in the shop. Last night after Fifi (the three year-old assistant) went to bed, I cranked on the drawer boxes making sure they were installed so that the faces would be flush with the fronts. The cut edges on the top got rounded over, sanded, and two coats of shellac. I was in the flow all the way to midnight.

Tonight was even better. I spent less than two hours in the shop and finished the trim along the bottom, and got all the drawer faces cut perfectly, even when the opening wasn’t perfect. The faces are from one piece, so the grain will flow across the front of the dresser continuously.

Next time in the shop I’ll trim out the faces and install them, making any final adjustments for a flush fit. After that all that is left is to apply the finish!

Shop Tip: Thoughts on Woodshop Design

I’ve been thinking a lot about how my woodworking shop should be designed from a tool layout perspective. Like a chef in a well designed kitchen, a woodworker should move from station to station to get things done, and those stations should be oriented efficiently. Before I go off and figure this out, I need to understand the space I have to work with and the other design requirements:

My Garage Shop

  • The shop is in our three car garage, and wifey expects to be able to park there (and she can’t right now).
  • There are other things in the garage besides her car: a fridge, household storage, water heater, furnace, and a gas stove to heat it.
  • The shop needs to fit into about 320 square feet but can expand to fill the garage when I pull wifey’s car out, but at the end of the workday it needs to fit back into the 320 square feet.
  • I can’t move storage of household items to the ceiling, because of the garage door tracks.
  • I can’t add any more electrical, I have plenty of 110, and would like to convert some of it to 220 because I’m hoping to upgrade my planer to something better.
  • I’d like access to all sides of my bench I made sure I could get to all sides of the bench when working on the dresser and man that is awesome especially when you have a helper in the shop.
  • I’d like the bench near the window.
  • I’d like to accommodate helpers in the shop.
  • I need more clamp storage.

Types of Work Surfaces

I am convinced that my shop needs three (or two if I combine smartly) main horizontal work areas:

Materials Cart Storing the raw and rough materials for a project, including the hardware. This is different than my flat goods or lumber storage. These are the pieces that are specifically designated for the current project.
Workbench Reserved for working on single boards or sub assemblies. Nothing is stored on this surface.
Assembly table Flat and large area for the assembled piece. Designed for clamping, and storage underneath for gluing, nailing (including compressor), sanding, finishing.

Note: the materials storage could be underneath the assembly surface if needed.

Workflow

So let’s talk about the workflow here so you can understand what I mean. Let’s say I get a contract for, oh I dunno, a Walnut dresser:

  1. I head to my flat goods and lumber storage and pull out what I need. These get set on the materials cart after rough dimensioning.
  2. The assembly table is clean, waiting for finished pieces. The workbench is probably covered in plans.
  3. After letting the rough dimensioned pieces figure out their twists, cups, and bows and dry out further I final dimension all pieces but leave them on the cart.
  4. I pick a subassembly to work on and move those pieces to the workbench for joinery and other tasks.
  5. When the pieces for the subassembly are done, they move to the assembly table where they may be glued and clamped, or they might wait for other pieces.
  6. Back to step 4 until all subassemblies are done.
  7. Now the cart is empty, the workbench is empty, and the assembly table is where the gluing and clamping action is.

Work Surface Design

Since the three surfaces serve three different purposes, they have different dimensions.

Workbench Mine is already done, it’s about 9’ long and 24” deep. It’s made for working on boards. No change here.
Assembly table Probably more rectangular than the workbench, which is long and narrow. 4’ x 6’ should accommodate most anything. The top needs to be flat, tolerant of glue and finish (or replaceable), and accommodate clamping (perhaps with large holes in the top). It will also need some storage below.
Materials cart This could really be anywhere. If I build the assembly table with a space between the top and the storage, materials could be stored there.

Of course the assembly table, cart, and tools need to be mobile so that my shop can expand for work and then contract back to 320 square feet. The workbench will be in a fixed position under the window.