Quick video I put together today showing how I use my Magswitch featherboard to ensure my table saw miter gauge is square to the blade for perfect crosscuts. I got my saw from the table saw geeks. And it is amazing and cuts great!
The stock for the USFA Trophies has been roughed and stickered in the shop for a while. I’m on vacation from work, and now that Christmas is over I had five hours in the shop today and made good progress. Before I did the final thicknessing and dimensioning, I had to repair a split in one board. I’m a member of the Wood Whisperer Guild so I’ve watched Marc Spagnuolo’s tutorial demonstrating a solid tinted fix.
For this fix I need the following supplies:
- Blue Tap to mask the area around the split
- Epoxy to fill the split
- Tint to make the epoxy look all Walnutty
- A tub to mix the epoxy and tint
- A stick, brush, or some other implement to deliver epoxy from the tub to the split
You can see that I’ve already masked the end of the board and the bottom face of the board. I don’t want epoxy leaking out the end or through the bottom and making this board a permanent accessory to my bench.
The Application Technique
I used my compressor to blow any loose pieces or dust out of the split before starting the repair.
And here you can see the epoxy applied. The procedure is: glop on some epoxy, push it into the split, slam the board down on the bench to work out any bubbles, repeat. Beware, this Gorilla Epoxy stinks pretty bad.
I waited a full 24 hours to let the epoxy fully cure, and then I used my Stanley Sweetheart Block Plane to cleanup the split. I am very satisfied with how this turned out, and although the epoxy is darker than the walnut it looks similar to the streaks in some of the other boards.
When you tune up your tools, whether they are hand tools or power tools, you’re doing yourself a favor. Beautiful furniture requires excellent joinery, and excellent joinery is not only functional and square, but beautiful and without gaps.
Many of us are hybrid woodworkers – we use machines on our stock, and then clean up the machining marks with handplanes. We flatten the soles of our handplanes on super-flat surfaces like granite or plate glass, and we sharpen our handplanes to 4000 or even 8000 grit with stones. Our shavings are super thin, measured in thousandths of an inch. That leads to very fine surfaces that reveal the full beauty of the wood.
If flattening handplanes to high tolerances is important to you and giving you great results, why not tune your power tools to high tolerances as well?
I recently tuned up my table saw with my A-Line It and I am getting much better results. I am also doing the same high tolerance tune up to my new Grizzly jointer, and I’m getting much better results. Think of this as garbage-in garbage-out – if you want to get good results at the end, you gotta do things right at the start. If you want tight, sturdy, precise and square joinery – why wouldn’t you want a tight, sturdy, precise and square jointer?
My new jointer seemed to be well-aligned when using a straightedge, but using a dial caliper revealed that it was not as close as I had hoped. This was not the fault of the factory, I am sure the cutterhead became misaligned during cleaning. The cutter head was not parallel with the tables (higher on one side) and was not in proper alignment with the outfeed table. After correcting this, there are many noticeable differences: the wood flows through the jointer easily, there is no snipe, the cutting operation is smoother and quieter, the surface is smoother, and the squareness is spot on. This will make the cutterhead last longer and the jointer safer to operate too.
Here’s a quick tour of my new jointer, showing where the shims go under the cutterhead.
And here’s a quick chart to help you convert thousandths on your dial indicator to the fractions you use everyday.
Now, go align your tools, and don’t forget to check the belts and wax the surfaces while you’re out there.