Tag Archives: pocket hole

Winter 2011 Shop Cleanout Sale

Over the years woodworkers get piles of stuff that at one time they thought was awesome (like a Chia Pet), and they hold onto those things for a long time (like a Mullet). Then they get wise and realize they don’t need those things anymore.

I’m at that point with some tools and accessories, so all this stuff is for sale. Local is better so we can avoid shipping, but I will ship if necessary from my local UPS store. As things sell, I’ll mark them sold. If you want any of these items at matt at uppercutwoodworks.com. These items are in good shape and rarely used, some are even reviewed on Toolerant.

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DeWalt biscuit jointer with a bag of biscuits. Sells for $152. $60.

Sears 11 inch Buffer/Polisher with 3 cotton bibs, no polishing compound. $10.

Sears 11 inch Buffer/Polisher with 3 cotton bibs, no polishing compound. $10.

Plunge base for Porter Cable 690 This is the plunge base only, no motor. $40.

Plunge base for Porter Cable 690 This is the plunge base only, no motor. $40.

Porter Cable router edge guide. $20.

Porter Cable router edge guide. $20.

Harbor Freight 67181 20oz HVLP, never used. $15.

Harbor Freight 67181 20oz HVLP, never used. $15.

Porter Cable router templates. 1/4” ID missing. $10.

Porter Cable router templates. 1/4” ID missing. $10.

Lots and lots of dust collection fittings. Gates, wyes, clamps. $20 for all.Lots and lots of dust collection fittings. Gates, wyes, clamps. $20 for all.

SOLD Lots and lots of dust collection fittings. Gates, wyes, clamps. $20 for all.

Kreg Jig Master Kit, used once. Sells for $139. $60.

SOLD Kreg Jig Master Kit, used once. Sells for $139. $60.

Halogen lamp, great as a raking light for finishing. $10.

SOLD Halogen lamp, great as a raking light for finishing. $10.

Sanding drum kit for your drill press. $10.Sanding drum kit for your drill press. $10.

SOLD Sanding drum kit for your drill press. $10.

Miles Craft blade changer. $5.

SOLD Miles Craft blade changer. $5.

Pocket Screws and the Kreg Jig

To assemble the face frame on the Fish Tank Stand, I used pocket screws. A lot of people like pocket screws, and use them all the time with lots of success, so I thought I’d give them a try. I ordered the Kreg Jig Master Kit from Eagle America and when it arrived I was excited to put it to use. Here’s my review.

What’s Included

The packaging was good, and it’s nice that it came in a plastic carrying case. The kit includes the drill bit, the drilling block, a clamp, two square-drive bits, some screws, plugs, a bench top base with camp, dust collection (vacuum) shroud, material stop, and a DVD that shows you how to use the system. Some screws are included, but I would expect more screws for an expensive “Master System.” Plugs for the pocket holes are included, but I think they are useless and ugly, and I’d never want a customer to see a pocket hole (plugged or not), so I tossed these in the trash. Many of the parts had oil on them, so they were wiped clean or covered with blue tape before making contact with the wood.

What’s Not Included

No manual is included, I guess Kreg assumes that every shop has access to a DVD player and that no permanent written material is needed. There aren’t enough screws included for the price.

Assembly

I was surprised at the amount of assembly and quantity of small parts. The arm on the clamp that holds material against the drilling block needs to be installed. The dust shroud (vacuum connector) needs to be installed if you intend to collect the sawdust. The brass knob on the drilling block needs to be installed with the block at the right height. And the entire material stop needs to be assembled from a bag of small parts. I would expect this to be assembled at the factory. Installing the jig and the stop on a board is up to the buyer. The stop has a slot underneath it like it would fit on an aligning bar, but the jig base station doesn’t. Perhaps if the jig base station had a slot that matched with the material stop, and the bar was included, it would be easier to install the base and the material support in a perfect line. Instead I think I’ll probably throw away the material support stop. It’s pretty flimsy and useless.

Using the Kreg Jig

I’ve only used the Kreg Jig and pocket screws one time, so these are my initial impressions. It was easy enough to use. I’ve seen enough people use the jig and the screws on the Internet that I haven’t even cracked open the DVD shrink-wrap yet. I assembled a maple face frame, and the holes weren’t as clean as I had expected. The included clamp held pieces in basic alignment, but I found myself using my bench to get things held in the correct position. When assembled the frame was pulled tight and roughly square. The squareness depends on how square you cut your wood (obviously).

Verdict

Overall the pocket jig worked fine and the screws hold the face frame together well. I was a surprised at the number of plastic parts, amount of user assembly required, low number of included screws, and uselessness of the material stop. I find it odd that Kreg is pushing the pocket hole plugs, and would be surprised if they are used. I have no data on the quality of DVD or dust collection.

There are a lot of pocket hole fans on the Internet, but unfortunately my reaction was along the lines of “really, that’s it?” I will probably use pocket hole screws for some future projects, but will lean towards mortise-and-tenon for face frames on my furniture because I am trying to reduce the amount of metal in my woodwork.

Fish Tank Stand: Face Frames and Clamping Dry Runs

Today GAKMAN and I worked on the face frame for the Fish Tank Stand. For this face frame I did things a little different:

  • I used pocket hole screws and my new Kreg jig
  • I cut a rabbet along the back of the frame so it would fit in to the case work

The pocket hole screws helped create a strong and square frame, and the rabbet let me use glue to attach it to the case work. I’m not a fan of nails showing on face frames and trim, or the tell-tale wood putty filled nail holes. Gluing it up was a bit of a trick, but a dry run helped a lot. I highly recommend going through a dry run of you glue-up to figure out where and how you’ll clamp pieces together.

Here’s the piece with the face frame on and the glue dry, just the bottom piece is still in clamps with a sloped caul.

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Check out the tight fit between the face frame and the case. My Stanley Sweetheart block plane really cleaned the case up well.

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Here’s another shot. Don’t worry about that end grain at the top, the entire cabinet is getting a mitered maple trim along the top and bottom.

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I did use nail along the top of the frame, since that will be hidden by the trim.

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You can see that one of the nails unfortunately blew out through the top. Not sure that it need to be repaired because the tank will cover it. That’s why we used a secondary wood for the top.

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It was good to get back in the shop, and I have a backlog of posts coming your way, including: