Tag Archives: miters

UCWW #19 Tool Tour Eagle America Spline Jig Pro

I’ve built spline jigs before. Quick and dirty ones. It was time for me to get a more permanent, better built spline jig. Eagle America came out with the Spline Jig Pro a while back, and when it went on sale, I bought it.

Assembly took about 30 minutes, that included futzing with the camera and fitting the miter bar to my miter slot. The parts are well machined for the most part, with any problems being cosmetic and not impacting the accuracy of the jig.

Eagle America has assembly and usage videos on their site.

Assembly Tips

  1. Read all the instructions before starting assembly
  2. Don’t fully tighten screws until you’re done with a sub-assembly
  3. Be careful using a screw gun, you’re tightening screws into an insert in MDF
  4. Be careful adjusting the bar to your miter slot – it’s hard to adjust the bar after it’s been installed on the jig
  5. The short screws (there are only two) are used to attach the miter bar to the sled
  6. Well placed holes through the cradle and sled would make miter bar adjustability easier

Usage Tips

  1. Make sure your miter slot is parallel to your blade
  2. Carefully set the angle and height of the blade before making your first cut
  3. The stop push the stop blocks into the base of the cradle to square them up when adjusting

Video Post #6: USFA Trophy Bases: Cutting the Miters and Clamping Square

I’ve made a lot of progress on the Trophy Bases this week, as you’ve seen in my recent posts. After ensuring my miter gauge was perfectly square to my blade and my blade was 45° to my table it was time to batch out the sides for the trophy bases. These are just 8” x 8” boxes with mitered corners. After laying out the pieces on the board, I numbered them to keep them in sequence and rough cut them to length with the miter saw. Then I mitered one end on the table saw using a stop block to ensure the piece didn’t slide along the miter gauge fence. When that was done I moved the stop block to the correct length, flipped the pieces around, and cut the other miter.

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Here’s a tip: after you rough cut the pieces they may be different lengths. When you cut that first miter, you’ll want to use a stop block for extra precision, but you don’t want to move it for every piece. In your stack of four boards, find out which is shortest, and set the stop block for that piece. You can then cut the miter on all four pieces precisely without moving the stop block.

Clamping Square

To clamp the pieces I lay them out on my bench, inside face down, in sequence. I then use (lots) of blue painters tape to pull the edges together tightly. When the pieces are held together I stand them on edge and check the dry fit and make any adjustments. You can tell you’ve made the tape tight when they sort of snap or pop into place. After the dry fit I lay them back on bench, this time inside face up, and brush glue onto all the miters. The whole assembly then rolls up and the last joint gets taped. I check for square and twist, and while I go cut the miters on the next box, I clamp the box to a board held in my bench vise. This helped keep the assembly square while the glue set.

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When the next box was ready for glue up, I removed the previous box from the clamps and stacked it on the jointer table.

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Here two boxes are done and waiting for their glue to dry so they can get cleaned up.

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After going through lots of blue tape, all six boxes are done.

Tight Miters

So how did they turn out? Check out the video to see a nice, tight, grain-wrapped miter, and please – leave a comment it would be great to hear from you!